CHAKAN / CHAKANDUZI is one of kinds of applied art. As an artistic craft, it is one of kinds of gulduzi. A woman’s dress is also known under the word ‘chakan’.
Etymological meaning of the word ‘chakan’ is connected with Russian words ‘chekanit’ (calk), ‘chekanka’ (calking), Old-Iranian (Avestian) ‘chakoma’ and ‘chakomak’. In this case, a concrete ornament is meant under the word. The word chakan’ is also given in the meaning of clothes with this ornament in the known and medieval dictionaries: “Burhoni Kote’’’, “Giyos-ul-Lughot”, “Mador”, “Rashidi”, and “Kashf”
In the most ancient samples of the embroidery of our ancestors, ornament was initially connected with fylfot. That was a symbol of honesty and personification of four beginnings. With time, the symbol was varied, and ornaments appeared, which meant a large concreteness, connection with the reflection of great reality, as for example, circle – kosagul (sun), flowers (respect to native nature), and others. Therefore, the ornaments originated in the period of the fire-worship of Iranians.
The phenomenon chakan in a Tajik culture is connected with the culture of Kulob valley. However, indeed, as an ornament, it is found in suzani of Samarqand and Bukhara, Istaravshan, Darvoz and Vanj, Vahyo, and Garm, on the edges of sleeves and skirts of women’s dresses of the Tajiks of Shughnan and Rushon.
The cloths of white, yellow, and red colors are usually chosen for chakan.
Embroiders are also very careful in choosing treads, these are usual natural silk.
In Kulob, this craft has been constant. Many personalities contributed to it.
One of them is Kurbon Zardakov (the second half of the XX century).
Many family craftsmen chakanduzes live in Kulob. For example, well-known master Shoistah Giyoyeva, who was taught for the craft by her grandmother Momoi Ohistamoh.
Kurtayu pochai chakani (dresses and bridges), ruimoli miyon (kerchiefs for waist), toki (skullcaps), bardevori (wall-carpets), rukurpagi (bedspread for kurpa and kurpacha), rugavhoragi (bedspread for cradle), taksari (pillows), parda (curtains), sala dastor, and others are embroidered with the chakan ornament.
The dresses chakan were sewn as wide before, but now they are sewn as narrower.
A kulob dress chakan differs from the dresses of other regions for its colorfulness and threads. Such dress is usually worn in Navruz and other celebrations.
Gulbandina is the base of the technology chakan. Anorgul, ashtak, bargi bed, bodomak, kajak, lola, raihon, toji khurus, dumi tovus, mohu sitora, poyi gunjishk are also well-known.